Dear Sommelier, Uruguayan white wine

Uruguay, known to many for "here, in Uruguay." Last week, I touched on "Tannat," the black grape variety that is essential when talking about Uruguayan wine.

Although they look similar to the "Malbec" from neighboring Argentina, they are completely different in character. I took a deep dive into both of them🍇 (If you're curious, be sure to look back at Ohayo Biwako vol. 111!)

Since it was red wine last week, I decided to learn about white wine this week!

Come to think of it, I remember seeing last week that black grape cultivation is more prevalent in Uruguay, so I checked again and found the ratio of cultivated area to be 8 (black grapes) to 2 (white grapes). To me, this felt like a very significant difference.

Is this really a significant difference?

Argentina and Chile lean towards black grapes at 7:3, while France and Spain are at 6:4. However, New Zealand is the exact opposite of Uruguay, at 2:8. I gathered some clues to solve this mystery.

The first hypothesis that came to mind was "climate differences." When I looked into the differences between Tannat and Malbec last week, I realized that climate has a huge influence on taste.



Black grapes have thick skins and are relatively resistant to sunburn, so they grow vigorously even in warm regions. However, white grapes have thin skins, making them prone to sunburn when exposed to strong sunlight (in reality, the grapes turn brown and quality drops). This is one of the reasons why there are so many white grapes in cool New Zealand.

But it wasn't just the climate! Another major reason is "food culture."

For example, in New Zealand, the abundance of marine resources makes fish dishes popular, leading to a high demand for white wine (especially Sauvignon Blanc) that pairs with them. On the other hand, Uruguay is known as a meat-loving nation, with each person consuming about 60kg of beef per year (about 6 times that of Japan!). It is said that on weekends, every household holds a barbecue called "Asado," and the towns are filled with the aroma of grilling meat🥩

"The chicken and egg problem of food and wine" is a phrase I heard when I was studying Italy. Which came first? Did the local food culture determine the characteristics of the wine, or was it the other way around? What is certain is that, looking at how wine is enjoyed today, the two are deeply intertwined.

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By the way, Uruguay has a warm climate, so it doesn't seem to be the kind of climate that white grapes prefer. Under these circumstances, what kind of white grape varieties occupy that 20% of the cultivated area, and how do they grow? I'll look into it in detail🔍

What kind of grape varieties are used for Uruguayan white wine?

Ranking in the top 3 by cultivation area are "Ugni Blanc," "Sauvignon Blanc," and "Chardonnay." These are white grape varieties of French origin that are widely recognized worldwide.

I'm embarrassed to admit it, but this was my first time hearing the name "Ugni Blanc." Upon researching it, I found that it is often used as a raw material for distilled spirits (brandy) such as Cognac and Armagnac, and it doesn't seem to have much of a presence as a wine.

Why is "Ugni Blanc" often used for distilled spirits?

To begin with, what kind of characteristics should grapes used for distilled spirits have?

First, it is considered good for grapes used for distilled spirits to have high acidity. Strong acidity brings balance and freshness to the taste after distillation.

High-acidity base wine (wine before distillation) plays an important role in producing esters (banana-like aromas, green apple-like aromas, etc.) and other compounds (aldehydes (nutty nuances) and lactones (coconut or vanilla-like aromas)) during maturation.

Also, lower sugar content is preferred.

When the alcohol content is low, the heating temperature required during distillation is relatively high. This makes aromatic components such as esters and aldehydes easier to evaporate, bringing diverse and complex flavors to the final spirit. On the other hand, if the alcohol content is high, distillation proceeds at a low temperature, so these components are not sufficiently extracted, which increases the possibility of resulting in a flat taste.

In addition to that, the grape itself should not have too distinctive a taste. This is so as not to interfere with the aroma of the barrel or the flavor from maturation. In terms of wine actors, a "great supporting actor" type is what is required.

Finally, it is even better if it is resistant to disease and has stable yields! This is because a large amount of grapes are used when making brandy.

"Ugni Blanc" fulfills all these conditions. It couldn't become a star in wine, but it blossomed in the world of brandy—somehow, it's a grape that gives me courage.

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"Chardonnay," which can adapt to diverse climatic conditions

Looking at the other grapes in the top 3, "Sauvignon Blanc" tends to prefer cool climates. Therefore, in Uruguay, it grows in relatively cool regions affected by sea breezes. On the other hand, "Chardonnay" is a variety with the flexibility to adapt to diverse climatic conditions.

■ Chardonnay grown in warm regions
Chardonnay grown in a warm climate is described as having "tropical fruit flavors." This refers to sweet, ripe aromas and tastes that remind one of tropical fruits (pineapples, mangoes, etc.).

In warm climates, solar radiation is abundant, photosynthesis is active, and glucose (C6H12O6) is accumulated, increasing the sugar content. Also, in high-temperature environments, malic acid decreases, so the acidity becomes mild, resulting in a wine where sweetness and ripe fruitiness stand out. (I explained the phenomenon of malic acid in detail in vol. 111!)

■ Chardonnay grown in cool regions
Chardonnay grown in a cool climate is described as having prominent "acidity and minerality."

In cool regions, solar radiation is low and glucose accumulation progresses slowly, so sweetness is kept in check and acidity is maintained. Also, because soil-derived components (e.g., calcareous soil) influence the wine, nuances like "chalk" or "wet stone" can be felt.

However, "minerality" is not yet fully understood scientifically, and it is thought that not only soil but also interaction with acidity is involved.

■ Can minerality be born in warm regions?
Even in warm regions, under specific conditions such as calcareous soil, minerality can sometimes be felt. However, in warm areas, sugar content and fruitiness (tropical fruit系) are emphasized, so minerality tends to be hidden by them and less noticeable.

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What I thought through my study of Uruguayan grapes is that many of the major grapes originated in Europe, such as France and Spain. I checked to see if there were any grapes native to Uruguay, but as of now, none seem to have been confirmed.

Why are there so many grapes of European origin when there is soil for grapes to grow in? The secret lay in the "Old World" vs. "New World" classification of the wine world (a name that sounds like it could exist as a Stand in JoJo).

Old World vs. New World

As the names imply, the Old World refers to countries in Europe and around the Mediterranean that have a long history of wine. On the other hand, the New World refers to countries in North and South America, Oceania, and Asia (including Japan) where wine production began in relatively modern times.

The feature of the New World is that grapes from the Old World have adapted to new lands and climatic conditions, each developing its own unique personality. "Tannat" and "Ugni Blanc," which I learned about this time, and Argentina's "Malbec" are exactly that.

Are the grapes in the Old World looking at the New World grapes with the feeling of a friend who is a little envious of a friend who went to study abroad and ended up succeeding overseas?

Since there is soil where wine grows, I thought there might be many grapes native to the New World, but unfortunately, they are in the minority. It is said that there are no indigenous varieties because the agricultural revolution was delayed and grape production was not emphasized due to less influence from Christianity, but I am not quite convinced! I would like to investigate this thoroughly somewhere else.

My journey of studying wine continues🍷
Thank you for your continued support!