To you, my sommelier friend - Uruguay "Tannat"

After spending 6 weeks in Italy, today I'm diving into the Uruguay chapter 🇺🇾

Last weekend, I watched a video by Gorgeous-san where he talks about "Here, Uruguay," for the first time, and I felt as if Uruguay was calling me.

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Uruguay is the second-smallest country in South America, yet it ranks fourth in wine production. So, what is the grape variety that represents Uruguay?

Its name is "Tannat." It is a black grape variety native to the "Madiran" region in southwestern France, brought to Uruguay in the 19th century by Basque immigrants (people living in the region straddling the border between Spain and France).

Just as "Malbec," also native to France, found success in Argentina, Tannat has adapted well to the climate and soil of Uruguay, and now accounts for about 27% of the planted area, making it the national variety.
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・Malbec (22.39%) in Argentina
・Sauvignon Blanc (66%!) in New Zealand
・Merlot (11.5%) in France
・Chenin Blanc (18.4%) in South Africa
・Koshu/Kyoho (29%) in Japan
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Excluding New Zealand as an outlier, 27% seems like a relatively high figure. (The 29% area for Kyoho in Japan is almost entirely for table grapes! This shows that the history of wine there is still short.)

Tannat, a heavyweight in the Uruguayan wine world. It is said to be derived from "Tanat," meaning "tanned/darkened like a sunburn," and is characterized by its deep berry color and high tannin concentration.

Malbec from Argentina shares the same characteristics, and since they are neighboring countries, I thought their climate, soil, and taste as wine would be similar. However, upon researching them, I found many differences, so I would like to introduce them here✍️

Tannat vs. Malbec: What are the differences between these two French-origin grapes that flourished in South America?

1. Differences in personality born from climate and soil

Tannat grows in Uruguay, and Malbec grows in Argentina. Although they are neighboring countries, their climate and soil conditions are contrasting.

Tannat grown in Uruguay is cultivated in a maritime climate. This region is characterized by high annual rainfall of 1,000–1,300 mm (Argentina is 240–500 mm) and a humid environment. Most of it is cultivated in lowlands (under 100m elevation), the temperature difference between day and night is relatively small, and the sugar content of the grapes rises slowly. Because it grows in a mix of water-retentive clay and limestone soil, there is no stress from water shortage.

On the other hand, Malbec grown in Argentina is the opposite. It is cultivated in an arid continental climate. It is grown at high altitudes of 800–1,500m in places like Mendoza, where there is a large difference in temperature between day and night, and sugar content rises rapidly due to intense daytime sunlight. It grows in a mix of well-draining gravelly and limestone soil, providing moderate water stress.

I thought, "aren't they the same because both are limestone soils?" but since the limestone soil in Uruguay is influenced by clay and the one in Argentina by gravel, the drainage changes.

These two, having grown up in different environments, show different expressions when they become wine.

2. Differences in taste caused by the environment in which they grew up

Both contain firm tannins, but Tannat is said to retain firm acidity, while Malbec is characterized by its rich fruitiness.

Why do these differences occur?

- Regarding acidity (Reason why Tannat > Malbec)
This is related to temperature and malic acid, which is affected by temperature.

Malic acid is broken down in grapes as part of the respiration process (metabolic process). This process accelerates in high temperatures. (Perhaps it's like using up a lot of calories if you run a marathon in the heat.) While daytime temperatures in Argentina are around 30–35°C, Uruguay is around 28–29°C. Due to this temperature difference, the consumption rate of malic acid in Uruguay is slower, and as a result, the acidity is firmly retained.

Uruguay is also cool at night (15–18°C), and in this low-temperature environment, the respiration process is suppressed, further suppressing the consumption of malic acid. On the other hand, although it is cool at night in Argentina, the malic acid consumption rate due to the high daytime temperatures is dominant, and as a result, the acidity in the fruit is easily lost.

- Regarding fruitiness ① (Reason why Malbec > Tannat)
One factor relates to the characteristics of the soil.

Malbec grows in well-draining soil. It seems that grape roots have moisture sensors (such as abscisic acid, a plant hormone), and they grow in search of water when they detect dryness. In well-draining soil, moisture is hard to retain in the layers, so the grape roots extend deeper and deeper into the ground in search of water. (It can also be said that if drainage is good, moisture moves to the lower layers due to gravity, and the roots grow deep to follow it.)

As a result, mineral resources accumulated underground are absorbed by the grapes, creating complex and concentrated fruitiness. This does not mean that the minerals themselves directly create the flavor, but that they support the metabolic process of the vine.

For example, potassium promotes photosynthesis and enzyme activity. Iron and magnesium contribute to chlorophyll production (the pigment necessary for plants to perform photosynthesis) and photosynthesis activity, which also promotes sugar production. As the sugar content increases, it adds sweetness and concentration derived from black fruits like plums and blueberries when made into wine.

- Regarding fruitiness ② (Reason why Malbec > Tannat)
Another factor relates to humidity.

When grown in dry regions, water supply is reduced, which inhibits the growth of the berries, resulting in smaller berries. Furthermore, since Malbec also has thick skins, the ratio of skin (rich in polyphenols and anthocyanins) to juice is high, which makes it easier to produce rich, concentrated flavors.

3. Summary - Don't judge only by what you see
They say that for people, 90% is appearance, but in reality, you see a different side when you get to know them deeply. The same is true for wine; you shouldn't judge just by appearances. If you explore the environment where they grew up and the environment they are currently in, you can get a glimpse of unexpected facts.

Through studying wine, I learned something important about life this time.

I wanted to drink a Tannat red wine, but I couldn't get my hands on one, so that's for next time. I drank a wine from an up-and-coming Uruguayan winery that I purchased at "Howdy," the love and adventure liquor store that taught me about "Classico" in the Italy chapter!

■ This week's tasting report
Nakcool vino Bianco 23 | Proyecto Nakkal Wines

"Proyecto Nakkal Wines," a natural winery launched in 2020 by two young Uruguayan winemakers. The two, who studied viticulture together at university, started a small-scale project out of a passion for natural winemaking. Production, which started at 3,000 bottles, has now grown to 30,000 bottles, and it is highly acclaimed around the world, which is rare for Uruguayan wine where exports are low (domestic consumption is 95%).

The name comes from "Nakkal," the protector of Atlantis in Greek mythology. They value the philosophy of "letting things take their course" and practice winemaking with minimal human intervention. "Making wine that the grapes want to become." This is their credo. By using simple brewing methods such as fermentation with wild yeast and avoiding fining agents and filters, they bring out the inherent character of the grapes.

Merlot 80% / Muscat Ottonel 20%
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・Appearance: Slightly cloudy and hazy. It's a dull light purple with moderate viscosity (subjectively, it took longer for the wine "legs" to form compared to wines I've had before).

・Aroma: Complex aroma. I feel notes of paint, like the wood section of a hardware store. Maitake mushroom, cedar, conifers, and animalistic nuances too.

・Taste: The attack is slightly strong, almost no sweetness, and dry. I don't feel much acidity. The mouthfeel is smooth. There is a slight astringency, but the smoothness of the liquid wraps around the mouth. I don't feel much alcohol or lingering finish.

・Pairing suggestions: It seems like it would pair well with gibier (game meat) or Genghis Khan (lamb barbecue). In Uruguay, domestic consumption of wine is as high as 95%, and the reason is that it pairs well with Uruguayan meat dishes. I'm a little anxious about whether I can replicate that, but I'd like to try it next week!

・Price: 2,640 yen (tax included) / 750ml

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