Dear Sommelier, - Australia's signature grape variety: "Shiraz"

Good Morning! This week, we’re back with our Australia series 🇦🇺

While last week’s theme was "Semillon," the first grape variety brought to Australia, this week we are diving deep into Australia’s most prominent variety: "Shiraz" 🔍

"Shiraz" is grown by 80% of Australian wineries and boasts over half of the country’s total red grape cultivation area, making it Australia's signature red variety.

YOU SAY SYRAH, WE SAY SHIRAZ!

While it is called "Syrah" in France and almost every other part of the world, Australian producers choose to label their wine as "Shiraz" due to its immense commercial success in the international market.

As for how "Syrah" became "Shiraz," there are various theories:

・One theory is that the label on the original vine cuttings was mislabeled.

・Another is that it was simply due to a strong Australian accent.

The truth remains shrouded in mystery. (Perhaps it’s similar to how people in Hokkaido call fried chicken "Zangi" instead of "Karaage"? 🐔)

Since we’re talking about Australia, I will stick to the term "Shiraz."

Incidentally, "Syrah" is said to derive from the Indo-European word "ser-" (meaning long duration). It’s possible it’s linked to this etymology because it’s a variety suitable for long-term aging. I never knew that!

The Chameleon Grape: "Shiraz"

Shiraz is a mysterious variety. Like a chameleon, its taste and aroma shift dramatically depending on the environment. In cool climates (around 15–20°C), it balances acidity and fruitiness with notes of "black pepper," while in warmer climates (25–30°C), it exhibits power, richness, and intense fruitiness.

That said, extremely cold or excessively hot environments are a no-go.

I wondered if that was true for all grapes, but it seems there are varieties like "Valiant," which can withstand -40°C, and "Vermentino," which can handle up to 40°C. It’s a big world out there 🌏

■ Shiraz Grown in Cool Climates

Shiraz grown in cooler climates matures more slowly than that grown in warmer regions. Because of this, the "malic acid" in the grapes doesn’t decrease rapidly, maintaining an exquisite balance of acidity and sweetness.

Another interesting feature is the aroma of "black pepper." This is caused by a compound called "rotundone." Rotundone is created from a component in grape skins called "α-guaiene." α-guaiene is a type of aromatic compound (sesquiterpene) produced by plants to protect themselves or attract insects. As a result, it creates that sharp, tingling scent reminiscent of "black pepper."

Rotundone is produced during the grape ripening process through the action of light and enzymes. Oxidation slightly increases the water solubility of rotundone, giving it a structure that easily binds to human olfactory receptors. In other words, this change is the reason we perceive the scent of "black pepper" so strongly.

In cool climates, the maturation period is long, allowing plenty of α-guaiene to accumulate and convert into rotundone. This results in wine where the distinct "black pepper" aroma of cool-climate Shiraz truly stands out.

■ Shiraz Grown in Warm Climates

Unlike those in cool regions, Shiraz grown in warm climates receives more solar radiation and matures quickly. This causes the sugar content in the grapes to rise rapidly, resulting in wine with rich, intense fruit flavors.

Even more characteristic is the scent of "ripe dark fruits (blackberries, plums, blueberries, etc.)." This aroma comes from aromatic compounds in the grapes called "monoterpenes" and "esters." These components become active as the grapes ripen, creating a "rich fruity scent." This is a natural mechanism where, after the grape has fully matured its seeds, it relaxes its defensive functions to release aromatic compounds and attract animals and insects 🍇

You may also notice nuances of "dark chocolate or licorice." These arise as the "phenols" (components that create astringency and color) in the grapes change during ripening. Warm regions have plenty of sunshine, and phenolic compounds are produced abundantly due to heat and drought stress. As these phenols change during ripening, they develop complex flavors, bringing out deep notes of dark chocolate and licorice.

Warmth also means more solar radiation. To protect the grapes from the sun, the skins tend to become thicker. Thicker skins lead to an abundance of tannins (astringency), the defensive substance used to protect the fruit, so you feel a distinct astringency as well.

■ Shiraz shows different faces—in which climate is it grown more often?

I couldn't find a specific statistic, but it seems Shiraz is more often grown in warmer climates. Warm regions offer higher yields and are better suited for large-scale production, which is commercially advantageous. This is likely one reason why Shiraz is grown in warmer areas. It could also be that there are simply more regions with warm climates to begin with.

I also suspect it relates to Australia choosing to call this variety "Shiraz." In the Northern Rhône region of France (the home of Syrah), they produce Syrah in relatively cool climates, resulting in medium-bodied wines with prominent acidity and spice.

Perhaps there is a desire to cherish a style unique to themselves, one that differs from the French "Syrah."

With that in mind, I tasted a Shiraz from "Penfolds," a winery in the Barossa Valley—one of Australia's major wine regions—where you can expect that "uniquely Australian" flavor 🍷

■ This Week’s Tasting Report
Max’s Shiraz 2021 | Penfolds

I tasted a bottle from the prestigious Australian winery "Penfolds." Surprisingly, when you dig into their history, it all started with a "wine tonic" for medicinal use.

Founded in 1844 near Adelaide in South Australia by Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold and his wife Mary, the wine produced back then was essentially "medicine" prescribed for anemia patients. It’s shocking that a globally beloved brand had such a unique beginning!

The wine that cemented Penfolds’ reputation is the iconic "Grange." Its creator was the passionate winemaker Max Schubert.

In the early 1950s, he visited Bordeaux, France, and was captivated by "red wines capable of long-term aging," and he determined to make his own in Australia. However, since Bordeaux varieties were scarce in Australia at the time, he crafted his own original red wine primarily from Shiraz. His innovative style was initially criticized, and he was even ordered by management to stop production. Schubert didn't give up—he continued making it in secret, and in 1960, it was finally met with great acclaim!

Thus, "Penfolds Grange" became the symbol of the Australian wine world. The "Max’s Shiraz" I am drinking today is named in his honor.

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・Appearance: Charming, with both depth and brilliance. A dark color like dark cherries. Light texture.

・Aroma: There is a floral, berry-like quality on top, but a heavy, jam-like nuance deeper down. I also caught a faint hint of dark chocolate. There’s a slightly sharp scent that reminds me of alcohol (could this be the black pepper aroma?)

・Taste: Smooth mouthfeel, but you can feel powerful tannins and alcohol. The finish is quite long, and a satisfying, sweet grape-juice-like flavor spreads out. I think I’d like to enjoy this with cranberry cake or a fruit tart.

・Price: 3,300 yen (tax included)/750ml

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